Joso's

Joso's is the Davenport Dalmatian room that has been grilling whole fish for Yorkville since 1967: founded by Joso Spralja, now Leo and Shirley, squid-ink risotto, branzino and orata, octopus, a dining room that still looks like the Adriatic wandered up Avenue Road. Official josos.com: reserve a table Tuesday through Saturday from 5:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. 202 Davenport Road, (416) 925-1903. Closed Sunday–Monday on that clock. First-timers: grilled whole fish and the black risotto; this is not a raw-bar night. Book ahead — the official window stops taking reservations at 8:30 p.m. even if OpenTable listings run later. Jacket optional, seriousness about the fish not. A landmark, not a trend.